![]() ![]() The Scamp got all brand new 4-inch thick foam from UFO in Vista. The table was finished with a couple coats of Minwax Satin Polycrylic. I used the original table as the template (using the same technique I mentioned above for cutting out the windows) and then attached some trim (also stained dark walnut) around the edge to hide the plywood edges. The new table is 3/4″ maple plywood stained with Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. Inside the Scamp I tossed out the original dining table and replaced it with a new one. As you can see, the kitchen was totally gross, the lights are all old and original with parts missing, the front bench was cracked, the carpet was super nasty and to me, that spelled “fun project”! I’ll give you more details on all the updates if you scroll down to the “after” photos. We also replaced a few other stock Scamp items here and there, and those were relatively easy to do. **ADDED** We also used a dielectric grease like this CRC Di-Electric Grease with Precision Tip Applicator at all of the electrical connections to prevent corrosion. This also allowed us to update the tail lights/brake light to LED and also install new amber & red LED marker lights and when they were done, those lights are nice and bright! You should definitely update your lights to LED. We found a pretty simple wiring diagram over at and decided to simply rip out all the old 12v wiring and install brand new 12v wiring. I hit the brakes and the right turn signal blinks….I hit the left turn signal and all the marker lights blink. When we plugged the trailer into the harness on our Subaru (the Subaru harness had just recently been installed new) the marker lights, brake lights and blinkers on the Scamp were all messed up. But we finally got it in place and gave it a thin clean application of Black RTV Silicone Sealant around the edges just for some added leak protection. Cutting out the window shapes wasn’t too difficult, but installing them was a pain in the butt!! We used the appropriate beading and lockstrip with the Lockstrip Tool and it was very difficult…even with the baby oil trick. Next, using the original windows as a template, I used the DEWALT DWP611 Compact Router and Freud Flush Trim Bit to cut an exact replica of the original window. We could have purchased new plexiglass windows directly from the Scamp Parts Store, but they would have been clear and we knew we wanted the windows to be dark tinted so we headed over to Ridout Plastics in Kearny Mesa and picked up some dark tinted plexiglass sheets that we’d have to cut down to size.Īfter tracing the window pattern onto the new plexi, I used the Bosch JS365 Jigsaw to cut the rough shape out of the plexi. It was clear that the windows would need to be the first thing to get replaced. Furthermore, the rear glass window had a huge spider web shaped crack/shatter and the weight of the glass had sagged it down so the rubber seal was all messed up and the duct tape used to “fix” it was crusty and falling off. When we saved it, it looked as if it was starting to be used as storage for both junk and dirt, haha! The front window had a couple small cracks along the bottom and as we drove it up the freeway, the wind pressure spread those cracks quickly! The rear window was actually solid glass, which is definitely a no-no on a Scamp. This trailer’s previous owner took it out for local fishing trips, but I have no idea how long it had been since it’s last trip. Fortunately, the body itself was pretty decent so we really only had to focus most of the attention on the interior and minimal exterior things. ![]() ![]() As you can see from the “before” photos, this Scamp trailer needed a lot of love. ![]() We were pulling it with a 4-cylinder Subaru Outback with no problem. If you’re not familiar with Scamp Trailers, they’re a fun, cute, lightweight option if you want to get out and do some camping. A couple years ago, my wife and I had the opportunity to buy a 13foot 1987 Scamp Travel Trailer. ![]()
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